Picture this: You walk into your local department store, head
straight to the make-up counter and ask for help picking your new
foundation. The incredibly sweet and
helpful make-up artist behind the counter shows you how to match your
foundation based on the color of your jaw line, and directs you to the perfect
product based on the concerns you voiced about your skin. She applies your new color for you and hands
you a mirror. Perfect match! You walk outside and head to your next
destination. Catching a glimpse of your
reflection in your rear view, you are suddenly startled! What looked AMAZING in the department store now
appears too dark (or way too light) and thick (or way too thin) in the harsh
natural light of the sun! Is that shine
you see in your t-zone (or perhaps you are WAY too matte)? Did you really just spend THAT MUCH money, only
to walk out of the store looking like this?
NOOOO!!!
I’ve been
there! Can I tell you a secret? Although a lot of those helpful Makeup Artists
are trained in both Cosmetology and Esthetics, make no mistake: they are there to sell you a product. I have worked those counters, and I was very
good at selling the “product of the month”, or whatever the company I was working
for was pushing. It is really important
to do your research before you go in so you have a firm idea of what you need to
avoid walking out feeling buyer’s remorse.
The common trick for match your foundation
color is to use 3 close but different shades , and finding the closest match to
your jawline (or worse, your hand). Here
is why I can’t get with that:
1.
The
lighting is notoriously terrible in Department stores. You will find your best match
in natural
light.
2.
Invariably your jawline will be much lighter
or darker than your décolletage (neck and chest) or your hand
3. Foundation oxidizes after about 10-15 mins, causing it to become slightly darker.
4. Your skin condition and level of desired coverage should be a BIG determination.
Now you know I’d
never deliver bad news to my Timeless Beauties, and then just walk away! What kind of Make-up Artist would I be if you
left this blog without feeling more informed and ready to find the perfect
product for you?
Let’s talk foundation!!!
As we begin, my personal philosophy on everyday foundation
is: “A little goes a long way”. If you
have the right product and you have a great skincare routine, you will not need
a lot of product to achieve the coverage your desire. There are 3 major pieces of information I
take into consideration when advising my clients on the right everyday product
for them.
1.
Skin
condition -
a.
Dry Skin –
A moisturizing foundation is perfect for you.
Go light on the powder.b. Combo Skin – Your choices are much more varied. You could go with everything from
a mineral foundation powder to a matte, or a more moisturizing foundation to achieve
a dewy (translation: youthful) look.
c. Oily skin – You are looking for a foundation that is oil free or matte.
2.
Desired coverage
-
For everyday makeup, it would be wise for you to
take an honest look at your skin’s condition without make up. Far
too often I see women with beautiful skin wearing much
more make up than they actually need (often in the wrong
color) for coverage. The result is very aging.
3.
Decolletage color
- I am a big believer in the tried and true matching warm or
cool
undertones: with the exception that I match to the neck
and chest, as opposed to
the jawline or hand and then go ½
to 1 shade lighter to allow for oxidation and
contouring. It’s
also a good idea to
rematch yourself in the summertime
when your skin is a little bit darker.
So, in practical terms what does that look like?
Let’s use my skin as an example. I tend to be fairly dry in the winter, so I
lean more toward moisturizing mineral liquid foundations. In the summer time, I will often use nothing
more than a tinted moisturizer and my foundation for areas that need a little
more coverage (Ie. Around my nose and under my eyes) and a little powder in my
t-zone to set. I am pretty fair skinned,
so I know that anything with the word ivory in it is probably a great place to
start. If I know I am going to be
photographed, I will stay away from anything with too much shine (flash can
cause your reflection to appear oily) and amp up my contouring.
Tell me about your tricks!
What works for you? Any drugstore
favorites?